Long-time trip to Atlantic Canada - Part 1


Here is a map, a small piece of the Atlantic regions of Canada. Once long ago I went on a circular route from Halifax to Halifax in a clockwise direction. It is about 1,500 miles a week a little bit. Then I bought for this trip my first camera. Learned to press a button. Photographed on pervosti, of course, not, not there and not there. A lot of myself in the frame and very little of the world.






About "littered the horizon" and say no. All started well, I suppose. Now they have to steal shots at random, in order to finish the story up to some reasonable limits. And because they do not particularly want to deal with piracy in large-scale, just have more to tell. There will be lots of text.
Between the peninsula of Nova Scotia and the mainland, on which the Province of New Brunswick, is a wonder of the world - the Bay of Fundy (Bay of Fundy). Because of the extraordinary form of the bay-like narrowing funnel, the height of the tidal wave in the most confined spaces up to 16-17 meters under normal conditions. This six-story house. Here, in the Bay of Fundy, in 1869, when hurricane-force winds were recorded absolute altitude record for a tidal wave in the world: 21.6 meters. Then lost a lot of people. The average volume of water pumped through the bay at high tide every 115 billion tons. So twice a day. The amazing feature of the Bay of Fundy has generated an incredible amount of natural phenomena: the current reversal of the river, the rocky shore exhausted, many kilometers of salt marshes, precious stones and fossils, which are constantly throwing out on the ocean, and other interesting attractions. In addition, the terrain perfectly empty. And the U.S. and Canada have the same structure. In both countries, despite the fact that the average size of the state / province, more decent country in Europe, there are several dwarf provinces on the Atlantic coast. They landed first immigrants after Columbus. Thus, the oldest city in America, St. John's, founded in 1583, is located in Newfoundland. Hot Spaniards preferred to the southern regions of the continent, but the French, Scottish, Irish and other Vikings decided to develop the north. The first came to Nova Scotia who are persecuted Huguenots from France. Terrain them so much that they named it Acadia. Once the word is connected with the Paradise kuschami. The descendants of the French maritime speak okolofrantsuzkom language and call themselves Acadians - akadiane. Literally ten years in Nova Scotia, the British landed, or rather, the Scots in skirts kilts. In the 17th century, Her Majesty's subjects were very active. French beat wherever they were found. The war lasted 50 years. The French brought the Indians to their side, but it did not help them. Quebec, they have kept for some time, but lost the seaside. Monuments to the heroes of that war on both sides are close to each other. On the monument to the heroic French text of the explanatory plaques first in French, then English. On standing three meters away from his monument to the heroic British, of course, vice versa. Of signatures to the monuments is not clear to whom this war heroes in the same time in the same place. Tolerance, their mother ... But it will be the second part, as well as another remarkable phenomenon of nature - Magnetic Hill in Moncton. And today we potryuhaem along the south coast of Nova Scotia from Halifax to Digby. Atlantic Coast of Canada is very poor. People here live off the fish, lobster and summer tourism. Tourists are attracted by rich untouched nature. In the summer these places come the whales and seals, they are giving. Whales are large, up to 15 meters, and they are very willing to pose for people. See a whale and not die - I would have formulated his childhood dream a little. A dream so to this day and did not come true: I like this idea ceased to be interesting. Halifax - a relatively small town, pretty clean, the central part is located on a cliff that descends to the bay. Cute two-story houses and neat churches are no different from a Canada-wide provincial buildings. At the top of the cliff is the Citadel - a small fortress, as in "Captain's Daughter." It is still guarded by brave Scots in kilts and furry hats. At noon in the small courtyard of the Citadel is a divorce skirt guard. We had not seen, we arrived at three o'clock. Built according to the rules of fortification of in accordance with the theory of the famous German military strategist Vauban (who remembers the movie "Peter"? Simonov there after the defeat at Narva yelling at the German generals, "Vauban, Vauban ..." It turns out that this is a real person, an engineer fortifier and a recognized authority in the 17-18 century), the Citadel was not able to test theories of the author in practice: no one who had never won, never fired its guns, no one ever tore her skirt soldiers. Since it exists as a monument and a small museum of wax figures typical inhabitants Galifakschiny. Another interesting historical site in Halifax - Berth number 21, which moored ships with immigrants. Through the concrete barn were 1.1 million people, and this item was closed immgratsionny just a few years ago. Now a museum. The maximum load on the dock came in the years before the war and after it. On the waterfront exhibited photographs of endless crowds of exhausted people with fantastic hope for new life in his eyes. Generally speaking, it's pretty pathetic frames. In Halifax there was a very large ground-based non-nuclear explosion in history. Exploded just 2650 tons of explosives - TNT, dynamite, and benzene. I accidentally saw the historic
reconstruction of film-SAF on this topic. It's very interesting. It happened in 1917 when two ships collided in Halifax harbor, and one of those lucky the explosives from the U.S. to France. The explosion caused local tsunamis. It was winter, people stoked the stove and kerosene lamp. First, the unfortunate city covered an air wave, then water, then he was burned to the ground. All live within a radius of about a mile from the coast were destroyed. Only three of the explosion was stronger than Halifax, but they were either underground or controlled. Damage from the explosion in Halifax is only about the bombing of Nagasaki. Such is the sad story. And in that day when we visited in Halifax, there was held the Atlantic Jazz Festival. Skip this thing was impossible, and we washed it down on a very curious kontsertik. First appeared a great young bluesman local spill actually a great talent. The blues in America, a special relationship, and this culture has reached very serious heights here. And then on the scene pulled 83-year-old grandmother from Chicago, which has ignited the Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington himself. I think it was them on vocals. Grandma was dressed in a bright cloth and resembled a huge ancient parrot. Because of their incredible size to go she could not, but the voice and power remained with her. It was something to something. From his chair Babets bred orkestrik and screamed hoarsely into the microphone rather obscene texts to the audience greeted with laughter and singing. Unfortunately, the pictures show was strictly forbidden. But look at this presentation was fun and funny. For some mysterious reason no photos in Halifax, I did not. Why did it happen, remember this is not possible. The camera was pulled out of the bag until the next day.
Here I stand on a rock ...
Let me throw myself into the sea.
What does the fate of me,
joy or sorrow? From childhood favorite lines Kozma Prutkov. For me, the Atlantic Ocean, to the native of St. Petersburg where some 8,000 kilometers. He directly behind him. A picturesque town named after the bay at Halifax, Peggy - first stop on the route.
No one knows now who this Peggy. In this picture, it just does not. Peggy was not the wife of a sailor, not a little girl, a survivor of the shipwreck and caught in this bay. Bay itself resembles a quarry. Beach quite high, and the ocean roars very menacing even in calm weather. Highway to the bay is a bleak tundra. Some lichens, swamps, and very low-growing tree in the middle of the rocky landscape. In fact, Nova Scotia, almost to the south of Ukraine. The cold comes from the ocean. The hottest summer water is not heated above 16 degrees, and the cold freezes the climate.
In 1998, fifteen kilometers from the lighthouse at Peggy's Cove in the ocean crashed aircraft company SwissAir. Killed 266 people. And found the cause: a fire on board originated in first-class cabin of poor adherence leads game console. It is hard to imagine anything more absurd. In the wake of the disaster on the shores of the memorial has been created. This is the story I described in detail inseparate report.
This photo transfer and the nature of those places. Christmas tree in the foreground is quite mature, and more, it will not grow. Typical tundra. More surprising was the change in the landscape as we drove along the rugged coast, where cold currents are no longer getting through. Immediately became very warm. The next picture was taken at twenty miles and hour away from the memorial.
There's remarkably picturesque coastline. It is all, of course, handed out for villas and cottages. There are incredibly cute villages. Each village just terribly proud of him. There will necessarily be a museum, a tourist center and a monument to fallen soldiers. They do not really care about that every war was his monument. Just the names of new born dead after a particular village are appended to the already broken. The list can be opened to the Anglo-Boer War or the First World. Then there's, you know, World War II, then Korea, the last record is more recent. Canadian soldiers and are now dying in Afghanistan. Each village has a very powerful web site and tourist center. It should be noted, the work of the Ministries of Tourism in the Atlantic provinces, above all praise. I, perhaps nowhere more so with anxious attitude to tourists is not met.
Photo Bay, made in the village of Chester.
Another village on the course, called Mahone Bay. This church is pretty well known, it often printed on souvenir postcards and plates. The next three photos are not mine. They are taken from a fixed site Lyunenburga - the only city of Nova Scotia, listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. This city was awarded the Merit of perfectly preserved wooden houses. Between us, I do not see how these wooden houses are worthy of World Heritage Sites than any other wooden house. But UNESCO more visible.
I do not understand why he did not make any pictures of this city. Just a Neanderthal. At the same time on the main square Lyunenburga just at the time of our stay a very special caravan stopped in New York, all consisting of Ford's legendary vehicles-T Release 24-30 years. There were all the options - convertibles, coupes, and even the family station wagon. Back on the box dangling from car company coffers. And only one type of perverted not a child, and strengthened instead of coffer diesel generator, and the side window put cheap Chinese air conditioner! Conditioner in the window looked like an unheard of insult style. But the other cars looked as if it had just rolled off the assembly line. Particularly impressed with nearly bicycle tires and spoked wheels. Lyunenburga After I thought that we have already seen everything on the south coast and it is time to turn off to the north of Fundy Bay.
Bay of Annapolis, the first point on the north shore - a long, narrow dead end, separated by a rocky ridge from the main bay of Fundy. At this point, the tides have any hoo. On this occasion in the town of Annapolis Royal in the tail of the Bay is a real working tidal power. The inside is completely deserted. The station operates in automatic mode. You can go from the street, please open the door. Computer room, of course, locked up, but the dam can be reached. On the way, colorful posters to explain the principle of the RPE and joyfully informed as the clean energy produced over time. The machine is simple, as the rake: rush throws the water into the upper reservoir, where it is delayed until low tide, and then discharged through the turbines. Unfortunately, energy is not so ecological. Due to delays in pumping water Gulf of bog, especially land, located behind the dam. There are some other considerations that do not allow to build these plants in a large scale. This is in addition to the obvious fact that the station produces electricity, not when it is necessary, and the lowest point of tide, that is 4-5 hours a day, every day at another time. In 1604 in Annapolis was founded the first French fort and settlement. In just 9 years old, in 1613 the British came and burned everything. Battles for the fort lasted until 1649, then all gradually subsided. Now, as usual, in the fortress there are monuments and protected the assailant. It is curious that, if the southern coast of the peninsula is inhabited by at least vacationers, the northern coast of the quiet and deserted. Perhaps the weather is good it could look more attractive. But I have the photographs and videotape were some elegiac Autumn landscapes, drawing on the wistful thinking about eternity and peace. Although it took place in July.
The picture was taken on the road to Port Royal, where the efforts of enthusiasts, the reconstruction of the French settlements in the early 17th century. At first it was a private initiative, it has subsequently become interested provincial government. Well, our village near Novgorod unlike the richer and more interesting, but nevertheless I gladly walked in clogs clogs and lie on the bearskin rug (all exhibits can touch and feel).
The British destroyed the Port Royal to the ground, even the foundations have survived. In this photo utaschennom from Wikipedia, recreated a replica of the village. Still, the first settlement of Europeans on the coast. Inside the houses sit on the court and people walk in the old French clothes - well, such as they are now. Footwear made ​​of wood, cloth homespun. Naturally, working forge, someone spins the wool on the ancient spinning wheel, one weaving baskets, which you can buy here - just like all other similar sites. From Annapolis we moved to the nearby town Digby - Canadian mining center Clam (clams) and skallopov (scallops). In Russian last are called "scallops", and here is how to translate the first word, I do not know. Probably nothing. Of shellfish in the world there are many different types. Clam Digby - a tiny gelatinous beads of tiny shells, which are baked in batter or go to the soup, and skallopy - the central part of the cylinders in the form of white meat with a diameter of about an inch, taken from openwork shells, similar to those of which pearl. Poorly cooked, salty skallopy resemble car tires, but if they make on the mind, it's terrible delicacy. The Canadian species of these creatures found only in Digby and next to it, and that makes this provincial hole in a sense, the center of the universe. Of course, there are chic seafood restaurants. Gourmets in Digby organize special trips to eat fresh Clam. And we were there. Tasty. From Digby in the Bay of Fundy to 50 kilometers away a narrow strip of land called Digby braid. In fact, this elongated island width from a hundred meters to two kilometers, among which are small ferries go. Around the islands zhiruyut whales, like the goal and culmination of the route. A few people spit has three months of the year, when a tourist arrives to watch the whale. Travel for the whale is on the tiny posudinkah and lasts three hours. Keith guaranteed returns or owner half the cost of the ticket. Of course, what else to call a whale. Nobody promises of fifteen gray beast everyone, although they seem to be very rare. But the change of type 2-5 meters in size will fall for sure. Advertising whale with very impressive photographs are hung in the Digby area and elsewhere, including public toilets. However, we had the misfortune. In the morning rain continued, and then sank the mist. Highway visibility was still so-so, but the coast on 20 meters was nothing to be seen. The whales had gone on vacation. Nothing came of it.
The famous stone Balancing Rock on the spit Digby. Such a picture is included in all guides. His brother was lying next to each other The sides of the observation deck, split the set in the wreckage. To get to this miracle, we must overcome 238 steps on a steep staircase. Down anything yet, but the upstairs is very sad.
You can not pass a dull charm of these places. Bad day, and travel a bit. We were alone on this beach. Rusty chest in the background conjures up thoughts of a shipwreck.
Spit Digby, as well as all the surrounding area, formed 240-250 million years ago in a terrible tectonic upheavals. Goodness knows these scientists that they claim their theories with an appeal. The main construction material is volcanic basalt. We are at the extreme end of the spit, which is called Briar Island.
Hour and a half we have twisted by dull gravel roads Briar Island. There are quite uniform, especially in the fog: going to the mile, and then break at the bottom of the ocean roars. Again, sit in the car, and to another cliff. Dense mist torn cries lighthouses. They were talking in different voices. One shouts, "tu-tu" tight bass, the other after a few seconds whine muzykalnenko "ti-ta". Again, cottony silence with the constant noise of water somewhere down below. Seriously, this is a very romantic atmosphere. I promise. I am not sorry that it was secured at such a distance.
The largest settlement on the end of the spit is the city Freeport (Freeport). Americans call these places "middle of nowhere". But it was not the middle. It was the end of nowhere. Fishing collective farm named after Lenin in the White Sea should look very similar. And no wine and liquor store! What do these poor devils here in the winter, I just can not imagine. It was this photo taken on the outskirts of Freeport.
And yet among the basaltic rocks are blooming orchids and irises are here. Briar Island in conjunction with other charms is its Canadian floral memorial. do the spit was nothing more. In the evening we crossed by ferry to the other side of the Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick province. There everything was fun. Author: